Spending 8 full days in Cartagena during Semana Santa meant Palm Sunday parades, masses held throughout the day, 5 nights of "Sacrum et Profanum" (sacred and profane music to us Latin illiterates), a reenactment of the Passion of Christ on Good Friday and many, many visiting revelers.
Cartagena de Indias is Colombia's #1 travel destination and we were there during the most important religious week in the Christian calendar.
Almost all of our one-year adventure had been in the Sierran Andes of Ecuador. We were ready for a change. We left conservative Quito for sultry, steamy, sea-level Cartagena on the Caribe Sea.
Trip preparations consisted of booking an apartment in the best location possible - and watching the '80's film "Romancing the Stone". And stones there were! Emeralds glittered from numerous shops tantalizing cruise ship vacationers and tourists with their infinite cuts, designs and settings. We explored narrow cobbled streets with bougainvillea-draped balconies topped off with a cathedral's spire for an exclamation point.
If NYC never sleeps, and everything that happens in Vegas; stays in Vegas - then Cartagena is the most sleepless, happening city on the South American Caribbean coast. The confluence of 3 cultures: African slaves, indigenous people and conquering Spaniards collide and create a lively cultural mix in food, music, art, history and....disposition.
The city was besieged by buccaneers and cutthroats so consistently that stone fortifications - the likes of which had never been seen in the Americas - were built to protect the city and port. The preserved ramparts, forts and walls with an intact historical city, earned it UNESCO World Heritage status.
Exploring San Felipe Fort complex on a very hot day!
The walls surrounding the historic city extends for miles and are considered some of the best preserved in the world.
After days of visiting historic sites and wandering the cobbled streets, we were ready to hit the beach! There are many opportunities to experience the water, especially along the Bocagrande; where the tall, white condos contrast in color and style from the walled city.
Jet skies, swimmers, tubes pulled by power boats, vendors selling jewelry, cervezas, shrimp, massages, water...I think I was the only person who paid the $.50 to use the sanican. Pretty sure about that. In addition to the long coastline - Colombia has outer islands for exploring. With temps in the low 90's and humidity about the same - why not learn to SCUBA dive?
A speed boat trip with Dive Planet to Islas del Rosario - that has a familiar ring to it - followed by a 45 min pool session and off the side of the boat we went into 30 M of water. Really?? It seemed like a big leap to me, but hey, it's Latin America! GERONIMOOO!! Is the word 'liability' even in the lexicon? That's a blog in itself.
Our apartment was perfect. Okay, we had teeny, tiny ants and lime green geckos, but what the heck. Four times the size of our Quito apt, we had 3 levels, it slept 6 and couldn't have been better located. From the top deck, we watched evening sunsets and full moon risings; the popular Plaza de Santa Domingo was a 1/2 block behind us - and the Bocagrande beachside running access was right across the street.
Not a bad place to have a post-run Colombian coffee! That's not the flag of Ecuador in the distance, but it sure looks like it. The courtyard entry was shared and the 24/7 security guard was always ready to help.
If senses trigger memory, bird songs have a similar effect on me.The morning and evening octave-ascending whistle of the ubiquitous black grackle transported me to 'mi solamente Caribbean viaje con mis hermanas en 1997'.
We experienced the city with early morning runs, afternoon bike rentals, an evening carriage ride and a ton of walking.
Every evening @ 5:00, people began spilling out into the streets. The siesta was over, time to enjoy the setting sun. At 6:00, the horse carriages, or 'coches' appeared. For hours the sound of shoed hooves could be heard clip-clopping along the cobbled streets. What a terrific way to say 'buenas noches' to Cartagena de Indias on a hot, humid night.
Do overs??
Drink more Colombian coffee to stay up late enough to salsa at Club Havana, where things don't get shakin' till 2:00am. Even Hillary has rocked out there~ Hail the coffee bean! Check out the size of that coffee tree!
Getsemani, Getsemani, Getsemani!
Spend more time in Getsemani - the edgy, hipster, happening barrio just across the drawbridge from the walled city. Where there are no vendadores 'hawking' their wares; where sidewalks are full of cafe tables and people of all ages, mixing, to play chess, read, sing, drink and eat, where Latin tunes wash over you from open doorways...aahhh -let's have another Club Colombia~
Gracias, Cartagena de Indias - por una semana santa inolvidable~
(Thank you Cartagena for an unforgettable Holy Week)
(Thank you Cartagena for an unforgettable Holy Week)
